And finally Positano

My arrival into Positano was less then spectacular. Isn’t that always the way after so much anticipation and giddiness? And what should have been a leisure jaunt across the sea from Capri into Positano turned instead into a mad dash out of Capri to Sorrento on the last ferry to beat the impending storm hitting the area. Then a drive from Sorrento to Positano making it all much more complicated. Not that I minded approaching Positano by car from the hilltops as it gave me a chance to gasp and take in its splendor from the heights above before the car inched its way down towards the cheerful blocks of houses below. But unfortunately the bad weather and what can only be described as monsoon grade rain prevented the total bliss of what should have been a sunshine filled arrival into this normally rosy town.

Thankfully the welcome at the hotel Le Sirenuse  and all its enchantments went a long way to make up for the dull weather, for my first hours on the Amalfi Coast were a bit of a washout. And it was with this greyness that I first set eyes upon Positano for while I did find it charming and likeable I can’t say I adored it like I expected I would. At least not at first. It would and did grow on me by the end of my stay but the first few hours of walking in rain, down the fabled steps which proved to be more a tourist trap of mostly tacky shops, felt a bit disheartening. I heard mostly American English being spoken, and very loudly too. I felt a little deflated. But finally I hit the little piazza in front of the church and found it charming with its whimsical artsy mosaics and I stopped for a moment to look over the sea. And again how nice it is to be by the sea and that this town exists on a vertical plane overlooking the turquoise beauty of it. I then proceeded in the pouring rain to walk down on the beach with its closed beach umbrellas and chairs, which still seemed a bit depressing as sea towns do when they are not basking in the glow of the sunshine both literally and figuratively, yet I tried very hard to make the best of it. I decided to join both the tourists and the locals dodge the rain in the lively Pergola, a restaurant right on the beach for a light bite and what better then a sunny glass of limoncello, before slowly making my way back through the town and up the steps stopping to explore as best I could with umbrella in hand along the way in a better frame of mind.  An evening back at the Sirenuse of course lifted my spirits tremendously with tea lights aglow in their restaurant while a local band played up lifting Italian music. The pasta with calamari and a regional pino nero were the finishing touches to make sure I did not go to bed disappointed. I didn’t.

The next morning I opened the wooden shutters of my room to the sun and blue skies… deep breath… It was a sight to behold. With the church at my feet its tiled dome in front of me along with the azure blue waters of the sea shining bright this was the Positano I had dreamed of. And if I had liked in in the rain, I knew I would love it in the sun. I now noticed the fanciful ironwork of the balconies and the lush bougainvillea cascading like ivy. Majolica tiles decorating sides of houses, and laundry lines on terraces. The beach umbrellas that were closed before were now open, revealing bright yellow and orange colours. Boats were dancing on the waves. And I was off to walk around or better said walk UP… and up…

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One thought on “And finally Positano

  1. Pingback: I left my heart in Positano | Travel in Italy Blog

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